Is Alexandria Worth Visiting? Exploring Egypt’s Mediterranean Metropolis

REASONS TO INCLUDE UNDERRATED ALEXANDRIA IN YOUR EGYPT ITINERARY

Situated on Egypt’s northern Mediterranean coast and founded by Alexander the Great in 331 BC, Alexandria was once one of the greatest cities in the world.

For centuries, Alexandria was not only one of the most strategic places in North Africa but also a great centre of learning. Its library was considered to be the keeper of all the world’s knowledge, and its monumental lighthouse was subsequently named one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World.

But the passage of time has not been kind to Alexandria. Over the centuries, foreign invasion, fire, earthquake, and neglect have taken their toll, and much of the city’s grandeur, including the great library and lighthouse, is lost.

Alexandria experienced a revival in the late 19th and early 20th centuries when scribes and authors were once again attracted to the city. In fact, the city was rather cosmopolitan, with expats and foreign visitors making up around twenty per cent of the population.

Modern-day Alexandria is a bustling port city with Greco-Roman landmarks, old-world cafes, and sandy beaches. Egypt’s second-largest city feels less frenetic than Cairo, perhaps in part due to its waterfront location on the Mediterranean coast.

IS ALEXANDRIA WORTH VISITING TODAY?

Many travellers overlook Alexandria in favour of visiting Cairo and the sights along the River Nile, but Alexandria has lots to offer the interested visitor. At first glance, much of its greatness appears to have been lost to time, but Alexandria is one of those cities that demands a deeper immersive experience than a day trip allows.

From Alexander the Great to the Ptolemaic dynasty, Byzantine rule, and the Ottoman conquest to 19th-century battles involving the French and the British, Alexandria has an astonishing amount of history. E.M. Forster wrote, “The ‘sights’ of Alexandria are not in themselves interesting, but they fascinate when we approach them through the past.” These words hold as true today as they did when his 1922 guide was published, and Alexandria is a destination that rewards visitors who spend time getting to know her.

Most tourists who visit Alexandria come and go as day-trippers, managing little more than a glimpse of what this multifaceted destination has to offer. However, to reveal Alexandria’s true character, we recommend a stay of three or even four nights. This will allow sufficient time to absorb the sights, sounds, history, and character of the city and enjoy the relaxed Mediterranean vibe.

REASONS TO VISIT ALEXANDRIA

FIND ALEXANDRIA’S ANCIENT WONDERS OF THE WORLD

The only one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World that is still standing is the Great Pyramid of Giza, near Cairo. However, although long lost, Alexandria was home to Egypt’s second ancient wonder. The Pharos of Alexandria, the most famous lighthouse in all antiquity, met a watery end when an earthquake in the 1300s destroyed it. Nothing remains of Alexandria Lighthouse, once one of the world’s tallest structures, which stood just off the coast from Qaitbey Citadel. The 15th-century fort marks a strategic stronghold on the north coast of Africa, and a visit is one of the highlights of Alexandria.

However, Alexandria has a second lesser-known ancient wonder. The Catacombs of Kom El Shoqafa are one of the seven wonders of the medieval world. The labyrinth of underground chambers was used from the 2nd to the 4th centuries. They house the rock-cut tombs of ancient Alexandrians and feature Roman, Egyptian, and Greek influences.

DELVE INTO THE PAST AT ALEXANDRIA’S ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITES

Alexandria’s rich history ensures there is a broad range of antiquities to explore, and visiting them with a specialist guide brings Alexandria’s past to life.

Beyond the Catacombs of Kom El Shoqafa and Qaitbey fort, Alexandria’s Roman ruins include Kom el Dikka, a 4th-century amphitheatre that also held performances throughout the Byzantine and early Islamic eras. Nearby are the ruins of Roman baths and the remarkable Roman Villa of the Birds, which was only discovered in 1998. Here, you can view detailed mosaics of birds found in North Africa.

Despite its name, Pompey’s Pillar wasn’t built for Pompey but for the Roman emperor Diocletian, who ensured Alexandria’s population didn’t starve to death while under siege from rogue Emperor Aurelius Achilleus’s army. The archaeological site of Taposiris Magna lies a short distance from the city centre, which is significant in that some believe the Tomb of Cleopatra may lie within.

Equally elusive, unless you don a wetsuit, is the remains of Cleopatra’s palace. Now beneath the waves off the coast of Alexandria, it is one of the oldest historical underwater sites. The original palace was situated close to the Pharos and was sunk by the same earthquake.

Another place that comes to life with the help of an expert guide is the Soma, believed by many to be the site of Alexander the Great’s tomb. The consensus is that his place of death was Babylon, but historians and archaeologists have been pondering the question of where Alexander the Great was laid to rest for centuries, and the stories that surround it are intriguing.

TRACE THE LEGACY OF ALEXANDRIA’S GREAT LIBRARY

Once one of the largest libraries and most significant centres of learning on earth, the rulers wanted the Great Library of Alexandria to hold all the world’s knowledge. Although many believe Julius Caesar’s Great Fire destroyed the library, other factors led to its eventual demise. Nothing remains of the great library, not even an artist’s impression of what it looked like.

The spirit of Alexandria’s historic library had a reawakening in 2002 in the form of Bibliotheca Alexandrina, an ultra-modern architectural masterpiece. In honouring its legacy, the designers didn’t attempt to recreate the old. Instead, the new library stands as a stunning piece of modern architecture against a backdrop of the Mediterranean Sea.

EXPLORE ALEXANDRIA’S LITERARY AND CINEMATOGRAPHIC CONNECTIONS WITH HISTORIC HOTELS AND ICONIC BARS

Great scholars have always been associated with Alexandria, and in the 3rd century, Archimedes, Ptolemy and Euclid were among the mathematicians, astronomers and philosophers who studied within the great library.

But Alexandria’s literary pull long outlasted the loss of its library. In the early 20th century, Alexandria was buzzing with creativity as novelists, poets, and travel writers found their way to North Africa’s Mediterranean shores. Many of Alexandria’s restaurants and bars were popular places for writers to meet, while others made fitting film sets.

After he wrote A Room with a View, novelist E.M. Forster settled in Alexandria for a few years. Reflecting on his time in the city in the early 1900s, Forster wrote Alexandria: A History and Guide and Pharos and Pharillon. Sadly, the elegant Majestic Hotel, where Forster lived, has faded into obscurity and is no longer a functioning hotel.

A little later, in the early 1940s, author Lawrence Durrell made his home in the city and his tetralogy of novels, The Alexandria Quartet, brings the inter-war years alive. Anyone who has read Justine, the first volume in Durrell’s literary tetrad set in the city, will want to make a beeline to the Cecil Hotel. Within is the Monty Bar, named after frequent patron Field Marshal Montgomery. Many famous people have stayed at the Cecil, including Somerset Maugham, Winston Churchill and Al Capone. Today, the historic Steigenberger Cecil Hotel remains one of the most prestigious places to stay in Alexandria. Another historic hotel in Alexandria is the El Salamlek Palace Hotel and Casino, which was built as a royal hunting lodge in Montazah Gardens at the end of the 19th century.

Alexandria has a surprising number of watering holes, a hangover from its multicultural past. The 1930s grandeur of Trianon Café is a little faded but it is worth stopping by for coffee and pastries, if only to admire the ornate ceiling and panelled walls. Significant patrons include Constantine Peter Cavafy, the influential poet who lived above the tea rooms. The Trianon was also used in Ice Cold in Alex, the film set during the Western Desert Campaign of the Second World War. Other iconic Alexandria institutions include the Art Deco Cap d’Or and Spitfire, one of the city’s oldest bars. Both have seen brighter days but are worth popping in for a taste of the ambience of old Alexandria. We do, however, recommend popping into Delices, a tea room that has been serving tea and cake since 1922. With its inter-war architecture, a sense of old-world atmosphere pervades.

SOAK UP THE MEDITERRANEAN AMBIENCE OF THE CORNICHE

The Corniche has been Alexandria’s heart and vertebrae since its inception 150 years ago. Stretching for fifteen kilometres from the Citadel of Qaitbay to Montaza Palace, many of the city’s best-known sights are along the Alexandria waterfront promenade. These include Sidi Abo El Abbas El Morsi Mosque, one of the city’s most architecturally notable religious buildings, and the Citadel of Qaitbay, with an enviable position overlooking the Mediterranean, as does the Bibliotheca Alexandrina.

All of our favourite Alexandria hotels are in excellent positions along the Corniche, from the downtown Steigenberger Cecil Alexandria to the luxurious Four Seasons Hotel Alexandria at San Stefano within a tower in the stately Grand Plaza to the historic El Salamlek Palace Hotel and Casino in the gardens of Montaza Palace at the northern end of the Corniche. Many of Alexandria’s finest restaurants line the Corniche, including the Greek Club (White and Blue Restaurant) and the Malakite Restaurant.

For an alternative perspective, take a boat trip from the old harbour and enjoy the views of the Corniche and the city skyline. But perhaps the quintessential Corniche activity is to join the Alexandrians and take an evening stroll as the sun sets across the Mediterranean Sea.

SAVOUR FRESH SEAFOOD AT HALAKET EL-SAMAK

Alexandria’s fish market has been in operation for over 200 years and is the place to go for a seafood feast. Situated on the Corniche near the Citadel of Qaitbay, the market is considered an important part of Alexandria’s heritage. The fish auctions start early, so you’ll need to be an early bird to catch most of the action, although the aroma of freshly grilled fish lasts until late into the night. Do as the locals do, and select your meal from the catch of the day, and have it cooked to your liking and delivered to your table to enjoy while admiring the ocean view.

GO DEEPER AT ONE OF ALEXANDRIA’S FASCINATING MUSEUMS OR GALLERIES

Museum aficionados will be very happy in Alexandria. Beyond the Bibliotheca Alexandrina, which is home to an astonishing four museums, the National Museum and the Greco-Roman Museum are worth visiting.

A little more niche but nonetheless fascinating are the Cavafy Museum, set in the Greek poet’s former residence, and the Royal Jewellery Museum, which houses a striking collection of jewels and jewellery from the Muhammad Ali Dynasty.

DISCOVER ALEXANDRIA’S MILITARY HISTORY

Those with a keen interest in military history will find Alexandria and its nearby sights absorbing. The region has been a strategic place for military battles and invasions across the centuries, in part due to its position on the shores of the Mediterranean, the natural border between Europe and Africa. Beyond the Roman and Hellenistic battles of ancient Alexandria, more modern campaigns include the Battle of Alexandria and the Battle of the Nile, where Nelson fought French fleets at Aboukir Bay in 1798.

In World War II, El Alamein was the site of a decisive turning point in the North African campaign when ‘Monty’ defeated Rommel in 1942. It is possible to visit the site of the desert battlefield as well as the Commonwealth War Graves at El Alamein Cemetery.

In conclusion, is Alexandria worth visiting? We strongly believe so, but don’t take our word for it… speak to one of our Egypt experts and start planning a tailor-made holiday to Alexandria.

HOW TO GET TO ALEXANDRIA

Alexandria is a port city on Egypt’s Mediterranean coast, lying to the north of the country. The distance from Cairo to Alexandria is approximately 240 kilometres, and the road journey can take around 3 hours, depending on traffic in and out of the city.

There are some flights between Cairo and Alexandria; however, the most convenient way to travel between Cairo and Alexandria is by train. The VIP Express has air-conditioned carriages and covers the distance in as little as 2½ hours.

Alexandria has limited international flight connections with Europe, although direct flights to Jordan, Oman, Saudi Arabia, and the United Arab Emirates open up some interesting combinations within the region.

COMBINING ALEXANDRIA WITH OTHER PLACES IN EGYPT

In addition to Cairo, it is possible to fly directly from Alexandria to Egypt’s Red Sea resorts in Sharm el-Sheikh and Hurghada. Combining an exploratory visit to Alexandria with a relaxing stay at a luxury Red Sea resort would be a great holiday for second-time visitors to Egypt.

SUGGESTED EGYPT ITINERARIES INCLUDING ALEXANDRIA

At Corinthian Travel, our Egypt experts specialise in tailor-made holidays, designing bespoke holidays that exactly match your interests, pace and style of travel. We are more than happy to discuss any ideas you have. However, we have a couple of suggestions that demonstrate Alexandria is worth visiting to serve as a starting point:

Egypt off the Beaten Track
Egypt Off the Beaten Track includes a stay in Alexandria and is designed for second-time visitors who wish to deepen their understanding of Egypt. This program encourages exploration beyond the traditional pharaonic sites and provides opportunities to engage with local culture, offering valuable insights into the lifestyles of the Egyptian people.

Alexandria & Nile Cruise: Cleopatra’s Egypt
This private tour provides a rounded picture of Egyptian civilisation through the ages. The holiday combines visits to Alexandria and Cairo with a relaxing three-night cruise aboard a boat considered to be amongst the most elite on the Nile.

Enquire about a holiday to Alexandria