The landscape of south of Tunisia is characterised by arid mountains, rippling Saharan sand seas, and great expanses of brilliant white salt pans (chotts). Where water bubbles to the surface brilliant green oases of date palms form and are almost mirage-like in their fascination amidst the desolation.
Tozeur is positioned on the edge of the Sahara and is the largest oasis in Tunisia containing over 200,000 date palms – many of them of the highly prised Delgat Nour variety. Under Arab rule Tozeur became rich on the trans-Saharan caravan trade. The old quarter of town know as the Ouled Hadef reflects that wealth; its buildings constructed using yellowish bricks arranged in geometrical patterns and are full of history.
The Mountain Oases of Chebika, Mides and Tamerza offer some of the most dramatic scenery in southern Tunisia with date palms surviving in rocky clefts, and small streams and waterfalls creating an Eden-like paradise amongst the arid mountains. The villages were abandoned in the 1960s and have crumbled into atmospheric ruins. Several good hikes can be enjoyed in the area.
Lézard Rouge is a tourist train running from Metlaoui through a series of dramatic gorges to Seldja and back. The carriages were built in the 19th century and were originally owned by the Bey of Tunis. The Bey’s private carriage offers travel in some style but the rest of the train is rather ordinary. Seats are allocated on a first come first served basis.
Ksar Ghilane gives the visitor the best opportunity to experience the Sahara in Tunisia. This small and attractive oasis is located right on the edge of the great sand sea and is a world away from the crowds of Douz. A sunset camel ride over the dunes of the Grand Erg Oriental to the nearby Roman fort combined with spending a night under canvas (in an air-conditioned tent!) offer a quintessential Saharan experience.