Home to some of the finest examples of late Kushite archaeology in Sudan, the enigmatic site of Musawwarat es-Sufra is located between Meroe and Khartoum in the semi-arid Butana, a region that was the habitat of lion until relatively recent times! Musawwarat’s central feature is the so-called Great Enclosure which consists of several building complexes that are connected by ramps and corridors and surrounded by a huge walled courtyard. A kilometer away is the beautiful restored temple dedicated to the local god Apedemak that was built around 230BC by King Arnekhameni. Many questions remain unanswered about the relationship between these buildings, as well as to their purpose, and why this site was built two days walk from the Nile. The most favoured explanation is that Musawwarat es-Sufra was a cult centre or place of pilgrimage (possibly for the lion headed god Apedemak) although other theories cite the frequency of elephants in carvings at the site and speculate that the complex may have been used for training elephants. No one really knows! Nearby, at the royal city of Naga are more astonishing ruins, including the remains of a Temple of Amun that is approached through a short avenue of Ram-headed sphinxes, a virtually complete Temple of Apedemak (which features the famous image of the god with three heads and four arms), and a curious kiosk that combines Egyptian and Roman architectural styles. To the south, near Bagrawiyah, the northward flowing River Nile enters the Sabalouga Gorge and the 6th Cataract (rapids). Navigable at almost all times of the year, a boat trip through the narrows makes a pleasant and relaxing break when travelling between Meroe and Khartoum (or vice versa).