Corinthian Spotlight: Discovery of Petra - Jordan celebrates 200 years
This year sees Jordan celebrate two hundred years since the discovery of Petra: the magnificent rock-cut capital of the Nabataean Arabs, UNESCO World Heritage Site, and ancient city widely heralded as one of the foremost archaeological wonders in the world. Yet, until 22 August 1812, the ‘Rose-red city half as old as time’ of John William Burgon's poem had been ‘lost’ to the West for more than a thousand years. The two hundred year old account account of Swiss explorer Johann Ludwig Burckhardt’s discovery of Petra is quite extraordinary.
Burckhardt had been travelling through what is now modern Jordan disguised as an Arab sheikh when he arrived at the village of Eldjy in Wadi Musa (modern Petra town). Here, he heard about some stunning ruins only a day’s journey from his path, and determined to pay a visit, he hired a local Bedouin guide to take him - paying him with a ‘pair of old horse-shoes’. Knowing that admitting to a desire to see the ruins out of mere curiosity would arouse the suspicion of his guide, who might think him a ‘magician in search of treasures’ and not an Arab, he told the man that he had made a vow to sacrifice at the tomb of Haroun (Aaron) which is situated at the far end of the same valley as the ruins.
The guide led Burckhardt through the towering deep rock chasm called the Siq towards Haroun’s tomb and into the ancient city, where he caught his first sight of the magnificent ‘Treasury’ tomb (El Khazneh) which he described as ‘one of the most elegant remains of antiquity’ and in a ‘state of preservation resembling a building recently finished’. Further on, he encountered many more tombs ‘which vary greatly in size, shape, and embellishments’ and also ‘a theatre cut entirely out of the rock’. Surrounded by such splendour, Burckhardt temporarily forgot himself and entered several of the tombs, and had started towards the free standing ‘palace’ structure known as Qasr el Bint, when his guide exclaimed: ‘I see now clearly that you are an infidel, who have some particular business amongst the ruins of your forefathers; but depend on it that we shall not suffer you to take a single para of all the treasure hidden therein.’ Fearing for his life should the suggestion that he was seeking treasure get back to Wadi Musa, and to allay any further suspicions, Burckhardt had to leave the beautiful ruins that instant following what must have been the briefest and most tantalizing of visits. He never returned.
Two hundred years on, the discovery of Petra’s amazing ruins can be enjoyed fully and at a more leisurely pace. At a minimum, one should allocate one full day for your tour of Petra, but for the cultural enthusiast at least two full days are recommended.
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